If you want to feel like you’re in “Apocalypse Now,” in a French colonial hotel, you must go to Le Colonial.
We had a bottle of Roederer Estate and three great plates. First, was the Cha Gio, deep fried shrimp rolls which you wrap with lettuce before you eat. It’s hard to misfire with such an item.
Then it was the Tom Cuon Ram, which are shrimp beignets, and I’d never had such a treat before. The only shame, I suppose, is that you can’t order them by the bucket.
Last was the Goi Atiso, a salad of artichokes and crab meat which you eat with sesame crisps. It was all excellent, and all went well with the sparkling wine.
The service was excellent, and Colonel Kurtz was happily absent.